Aaron Ledger
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Have you used the HDHR and Ceton diagnostic tools. HDHR has some nice tools like the command-line tool to test the tuner and tell you the cause of the error. I can provide you the instruction if you’ve never used it before.
Since you work with RF, do you have access to a spectrum analyzer to verify whether there is some sort of interference at this frequency that is seemingly caused by the HDHR?
What does the diagram look like with the HDHR and other tuners?
Does the pixelation happen constantly or periodically. If periodically, is the frequency repeatable or random and how often is the period?
Does it happen when just viewing the CBS affiliate and not recording anything else?
If it is only your CBS affiliate having the issue, have you tried powering off any wireless transmission devices as a test?
What does the diagram look like with the HDHR and other tuners?
Does the pixelation happen constantly or periodically. If periodically, is the frequency repeatable or random and how often is the period?
Does it happen when just viewing the CBS affiliate and not recording anything else?
If it is only your CBS affiliate having the issue, have you tried powering off any wireless transmission devices as a test?
Josh,
You’ve got to isolate the issue. I’d start where Mikinho suggests and that is with your cabling as that is the most likely cause. Remove any unnecessary splits and terminate any unused splitter ports. Check all of your cabling. Make sure every coax connection is tight. Tug on each cable while holding the end to ensure the connectors are snug on the cable. Ensure that no center leads have been accidentiallyh smashed in such a way as to not make good contact. Check for RG-59 cable and replace with RG-6 cable. Quad-shielded RG-6 is best in general home use. RG-59 has too much signal attenuation.
Other signal related troubleshooting might include disabling any possible sources of interference like cell phones, wireless devices, routers, phones, etc. All of which while not necessarily in the sub-1MHz band, can generate signal harmonics that possibly could interfere with certain frequencies in the sub-1MHz cable domain.
If you’ve got a really long run of cable with a lot of splits, it might be necessary to use a signal amp. If so, get a good one and place it as close to the cable drop as feasible. Err on the side of not using any amps first though as they can also introduce problems and a lot of times are used unnecessarily.
Well, there’s your first homework assignment!
Josh,
You’ve got to isolate the issue. I’d start where Mikinho suggests and that is with your cabling as that is the most likely cause. Remove any unnecessary splits and terminate any unused splitter ports. Check all of your cabling. Make sure every coax connection is tight. Tug on each cable while holding the end to ensure the connectors are snug on the cable. Ensure that no center leads have been accidentiallyh smashed in such a way as to not make good contact. Check for RG-59 cable and replace with RG-6 cable. Quad-shielded RG-6 is best in general home use. RG-59 has too much signal attenuation.
Other signal related troubleshooting might include disabling any possible sources of interference like cell phones, wireless devices, routers, phones, etc. All of which while not necessarily in the sub-1MHz band, can generate signal harmonics that possibly could interfere with certain frequencies in the sub-1MHz cable domain.
If you’ve got a really long run of cable with a lot of splits, it might be necessary to use a signal amp. If so, get a good one and place it as close to the cable drop as feasible. Err on the side of not using any amps first though as they can also introduce problems and a lot of times are used unnecessarily.
Well, there’s your first homework assignment!
Speaking of calibration… Here’s a new VT25 review from Kevin Miller, formerly Cnet. Hopefully, Panasonic can fix this in a new firmware.
http://www.tweaktv.com/quick-looks/panasonic-tc-p58vt25-3dtv-quick-review-best-hdtv-ever-made.html
Speaking of calibration… Here’s a new VT25 review from Kevin Miller, formerly Cnet. Hopefully, Panasonic can fix this in a new firmware.
http://www.tweaktv.com/quick-looks/panasonic-tc-p58vt25-3dtv-quick-review-best-hdtv-ever-made.html
[quote=”Matt”]
I have to say that’s way more affordable than I thought it would be… I know the pro stuff is $1000+I’ve been interested in getting something for real calibration (not just by eye) and not the junk marketed to home users like the DataColor Spyder3TV.
I’m curious how/why is that colorimeters drift? and what can be done about it?
[/quote]I don’t know exactly why the drift, but I think it has something to do with the filters inside a colorimeter that change characteristics over time due to humidity and temperature changes. As I understand it, spectroradiometers do not have this same issue, but of course are more expensive. My meter came with dessicant, so I just seal it up in a ziploc with it and hope it helps knowing that in a few years, I may need to think more about the accuracy of it at that time.
The i1 Display colorimeters have advantages in price/accuracy ratio, low-light sensitivity, measurement speed and are temperature-compensated.
I bought one because it seemed strange to purchase a $2k display and not spend an extra $150 on a meter to get things more accurate, especially seeing as how HTPC is my source and who knows what’s going on with driver changes/video card changes/software changes… The fact that I could also use it for ICC profiling on my PC displays was an added bonus.
[quote=”Matt”]
I have to say that’s way more affordable than I thought it would be… I know the pro stuff is $1000+I’ve been interested in getting something for real calibration (not just by eye) and not the junk marketed to home users like the DataColor Spyder3TV.
I’m curious how/why is that colorimeters drift? and what can be done about it?
[/quote]I don’t know exactly why the drift, but I think it has something to do with the filters inside a colorimeter that change characteristics over time due to humidity and temperature changes. As I understand it, spectroradiometers do not have this same issue, but of course are more expensive. My meter came with dessicant, so I just seal it up in a ziploc with it and hope it helps knowing that in a few years, I may need to think more about the accuracy of it at that time.
The i1 Display colorimeters have advantages in price/accuracy ratio, low-light sensitivity, measurement speed and are temperature-compensated.
I bought one because it seemed strange to purchase a $2k display and not spend an extra $150 on a meter to get things more accurate, especially seeing as how HTPC is my source and who knows what’s going on with driver changes/video card changes/software changes… The fact that I could also use it for ICC profiling on my PC displays was an added bonus.
[quote=”Mikinho”]
[quote=”swoon”]
The X-rite Eye-one Display LT. It is spec’d to be accurate to .02 cd/m2 and .008 ftL is above that.Katzmaier definitely has a more sensitive meter, but I don’t think that could explain the variation at play here as I am not alone in these lower readings. The HDTV Shootout held at Value Electronics was performed by ISF calibrators with very sensitive meters. HDGuru who also has a more sensitive meter measured .009 ftL, but these are all 58″ panels.
[/quote]Thanks, I was just curious as I’ve been researching different spectrophotometers and colorimeters to invest it.
I was looking at the X-Rite EODIS2 Eye-One Display 2.
[/quote]I’m not sure exactly what the Display 2 offers over the LT. It has something to do with the X-rite software specifically though and not the meter itself. I have been able to use the LT to generate icc profiles using the included software as well as calibrate my C8000 10pt. grayscale and CMS using the free ColorHCFR software.
The downside to colorimeters is that they do tend to drift over time. In a few years, you could always buy a new one or profile against a spectrophotometer.
[quote=”Mikinho”]
[quote=”swoon”]
The X-rite Eye-one Display LT. It is spec’d to be accurate to .02 cd/m2 and .008 ftL is above that.Katzmaier definitely has a more sensitive meter, but I don’t think that could explain the variation at play here as I am not alone in these lower readings. The HDTV Shootout held at Value Electronics was performed by ISF calibrators with very sensitive meters. HDGuru who also has a more sensitive meter measured .009 ftL, but these are all 58″ panels.
[/quote]Thanks, I was just curious as I’ve been researching different spectrophotometers and colorimeters to invest it.
I was looking at the X-Rite EODIS2 Eye-One Display 2.
[/quote]I’m not sure exactly what the Display 2 offers over the LT. It has something to do with the X-rite software specifically though and not the meter itself. I have been able to use the LT to generate icc profiles using the included software as well as calibrate my C8000 10pt. grayscale and CMS using the free ColorHCFR software.
The downside to colorimeters is that they do tend to drift over time. In a few years, you could always buy a new one or profile against a spectrophotometer.
[quote=”Mikinho”]
@swoon, what meter do you use?
[/quote]The X-rite Eye-one Display LT. It is spec’d to be accurate to .02 cd/m2 and .008 ftL is above that.
Katzmaier definitely has a more sensitive meter, but I don’t think that could explain the variation at play here as I am not alone in these lower readings. The HDTV Shootout held at Value Electronics was performed by ISF calibrators with very sensitive meters. HDGuru who also has a more sensitive meter measured .009 ftL, but these are all 58″ panels.
[quote=”Mikinho”]
@swoon, what meter do you use?
[/quote]The X-rite Eye-one Display LT. It is spec’d to be accurate to .02 cd/m2 and .008 ftL is above that.
Katzmaier definitely has a more sensitive meter, but I don’t think that could explain the variation at play here as I am not alone in these lower readings. The HDTV Shootout held at Value Electronics was performed by ISF calibrators with very sensitive meters. HDGuru who also has a more sensitive meter measured .009 ftL, but these are all 58″ panels.
[quote=”babgvant”]
[quote=”swoon”]If that’s what he measured, I am surprised. Of course, it is surprising that PC Mag review says it has Kuro blacks as well. Perhaps there is some panel variance at play, firmware bug, phospors not aged enough, etc.
[/quote]
Might be a difference in test equipment. My 2 cents – both are excellent panels 🙂
[/quote]It’s possible, although even .008 ftL is within the spec of my meter. It is also known that the 50″ C8000 is made on a different line than the 58″/63″ sizes, so perhaps this is an explanation for the difference.
I agree that it is like splitting hairs when looking at either VT25 or C8000.
[quote=”babgvant”]
[quote=”swoon”]If that’s what he measured, I am surprised. Of course, it is surprising that PC Mag review says it has Kuro blacks as well. Perhaps there is some panel variance at play, firmware bug, phospors not aged enough, etc.
[/quote]
Might be a difference in test equipment. My 2 cents – both are excellent panels 🙂
[/quote]It’s possible, although even .008 ftL is within the spec of my meter. It is also known that the 50″ C8000 is made on a different line than the 58″/63″ sizes, so perhaps this is an explanation for the difference.
I agree that it is like splitting hairs when looking at either VT25 or C8000.
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