Glitchy
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Glitchy
[quote=Night Rider]
Again on Sale
Belkin PureAV PF30 Home Theater Power Console = $59.99 + FREE shippinghttp://www.buy.com/prod/belkin-pureav-pf30-home-theater-power-console/207514354.html
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Just picked up 2 ea. Thanks for the heads up.
I have a small ups for the htpc’s and server, and these will cover the AV gear!
Thanks again
Jeff
Glitchy[quote=DavidStein]
I have an windows 7 htpc that stays on all the time, connected via HDMI directly to my television.
I was having the common problem where the htpc would revert to 1024×768 at least half the time after turning off my tv and then turning it back on if 7mc were in fullscreen mode, necessitating toggling it into and out of windowed mode.
For xmas I received an HDMIdetective to take care of that problem, but now I am getting a new issue: when switching to liveTV (received via a hauppauge DCR-2650 cable card tuner) I am getting the error about needing HDCP support. I would get that from time to time in the past but it would always make the handshake after a couple seconds. now it just sits there until I put 7mc into and out of windowed mode, afterwhich it works perfectly.
I thought the hdmidetective was supposed to maintain that hdcp handshake and EDID data? this toggling into and out of windowed mode is what I was trying to avoid.
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Did you flip the dip switch? #4 ? (maybe #5). Just checking 🙂
I just got one too, but haven’t installed it yet. There is something in the instructions about it.
Jeff
Glitchy[quote=fstrydom]So it looks like my current internal usb ir sensor is dead. I use a Zalman case that came with remote and vfd. I can’t quite recall why but that remote and sensor in the vfd would not work for me and my army of harmony remotes, so I stuffed a small usb based sensor in between the gap in front of the vfd. It worked great until now. But now I need something to replace it with. Should be small and work off a usb internal header Suggestions?[/quote]
http://www.hd-plex.com/remote.control.html
Jeff
Glitchy[quote=PAPutzback]
If Netflix works and bluray does not then I’d definitely say it is a codec or diver issue. There is no way Netflix requires the GPU capabilities that BD does.
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Netflix video also stutters/lags, just not as bad
Jeff
Glitchy[quote=NightCactus]
Do you see the same lag/stuttering if you connect your HTPC to a PC Monitor via DVI?
Have you tried disabling virus scanning on the video and recording folders? What about your codecs? I’ve had very good results with the Shark007 pack.
[/quote] No anti virus no codecs for me! My rig and setup has always worked without them. At least till now!
One thing I have to check I just noticed I did change recently is I installed the Wyse remote desktop program for access from my work, and android phone/tablet.
Will update if that was the dealio
Jeff
Glitchy[quote=NightCactus]
Is your HTPC connected to an AVR? It could be a HDCP or HDMI handshake issue.
[/quote] Yes it is connected to an Onkyo. Has been working for a long time with that hookup so that didn’t cross my mind.
I will look into the handshake. Maybe it’s time to breakdown and spend the $80 for “the detective”
Thanks
Jeff
Glitchy[quote=mikinho]
btw, Take a look at http://www.brickwall.com/ground-current.html. It discusses some potential data line surges caused by surge protectors.
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Looked at the brick wall site. I’ll be getting those right after I win the lotto or if I figure a way to cash in my life insurance policy, before the big event.
Glitchy[quote=mikinho]
btw, Take a look at http://www.brickwall.com/ground-current.html. It discusses some potential data line surges caused by surge protectors.
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Thanks guys.
Got coax grounding and surge.
Electrical grounding covered. (my dad was an electrical contractor and I worked for him when I was a kid.) I did all the electrical for gear and rack myself. House is 5 years old, so should be good.
I’m all about constant voltage. Maybe the equipment is better now, but back in the day I saw low/high voltage spikes do terrible things to equipment of all kinds. So I just don’t take a chance. My UPS does a bit of voltage regulation and I have a whole house surge protector.
Yeah, the switch at the top of the rack was a bad (lazy) idea. All to the procurve. Time to order more cables. I cut all cables for the rack to length last time out. Learned that lesson.
All cables, connectors, patch panel cat6.
Thanks
Jeff
Glitchy[quote=Aaron Ledger]
Did you try a different browser? Is there anything in the manual where you need to do something special to enable the managed aspect of the switch?
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Thanks! Tried Chrome and it worked! (was using explorer)
Jeff
GlitchyWell I got the ProCurve. Installed it, hooked up the cables and I have a network.
Now I’m trying to use the web interface to set it up. The router is supplying DHCP.
I got the DHCP IP, entered it into browser, get the login interface, login, it goes to the “page”, flashes “loading” for a second and then I get this message.
“3Com Baseline Switch 2920-SFP Plus Software Version Release 1101P10enab0200003Com Baseline Switch 2920-SFP Plus Software Version Release 1101P10ie00admin3″.
And that’s it.
It must be logging in, because I also got a message about maximum logins at one time. (So I did a hard reset.).
Any ideas?
Thanks
Jeff
Glitchy[quote=Aaron Ledger]
Unfortunately, we recently discovered that an error caused the following item( s ) to be displayed at an incorrect price:
HighPoint RocketRAID 2782 PCI-e X16 SAS/SATA 6Gb/s RAID Controller
In this case, we’re unable to offer this item for the incorrectly posted price. Therefore, we’ve cancelled your order for this item.
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Me too! D*mn, but not like I didn’t expect it. Just hoped!
Glitchy[quote=Ugadata]
The Procurve should work out of the box as an unmanaged switch.
I would suggest using the Procurve as the switch you plug all your computing equipment into. The Linksys would be the gateway to the Internet as well as wireless access and one cable between the Linksys (LAN side) and Procurve should do it. (forgive me if you already knew all this).
For future reference you may want to look at MicroTik products.
http:\www.microtik.com
Wired and wireless routers very inexpensive but very powerful. You can even buy the RouterOS and run it on a PC.
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Thanks for all.
That manual for the procurve was the first “tech” thing I’ve looked at that “scared me”.
Yes for me, all devices to the switch and a cable to the router. Bu thanks for making sure for me (or others)
I’ll check out that site.
Jeff
GlitchyI just took a stroll thru the procurve manual, 438 pages
Hopefully I can just plug it in and use it till I “do some learning”
Glitchy[quote=mikinho]
The HP ProCurve is a solid switch. What model 1910 did you get? the -48 and -24 I’ve used and have had no issues with. The -16 I read of a couple firmware issues but that is probably fixed already.
The Linksys E4200 I’m not a big fan of but at the same time there aren’t any consumer routers I really like. The few people I know with a Linksys E4200 are happy with them.
In terms of your Intel NICs….not all Intel NICs are equal. For instance the Intel PRO/1000 GT PCI is crap.
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Procurve is a 16. I go with that updated firmware thought 🙂
Server and HTPC nics are onboard i5 650 (DD MB) i7 2600 (GD MB), PRO/1000 ??? nics. All other nics built in also. xboxs, HDHRs, Squeezebox, AVRs, etc.
I read about pfsense here and told a buddy. He set one up and is setting up one in a vm and is very happy. I’ll probably follow his lead when he is all settled in.
Thanks
Jeff
Glitchy[quote=Aaron Ledger]
It is certainly possible you have a switch issue. What type of NICs are in your server and client?
Have you tried bypassing the switch (direct connect between client and server) for troubleshooting purposes to verify that the switch is the issue?
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All intel nics
We no I’m lazy :}
So many configurations, so much hardware/software, it’s my last ditch effort.
Now I don’t mean every BR stutters all the time, but it seems like maybe every other one does. I know I am just being “picky” but I’ve got a lot of time and money into this setup.
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