Meester.Rip
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As far as frustrations go it was always what I introduced to the HTPC setup that caused me the problems not necessarily the pc.
When I was running Media Center 2005 on my Tube TV it worked great for a couple years. I’ll list my issues chronologically.
I got a HDTV – This required a new setup so I upgrade my video card for HDMI – problem fixed.
Added an HDHR – Pixelation caused from cheap onboard NIC. Tinkered with properties and upgraded router to gigabit.
BluRay comes along. New build here to have a faster proc, bigger HDD for storage. Onboard video works. Board was a 690G
Surround sound – Onboard audio didn’t cut it, I tried a new ATI 4350 addin card, still an issue so I went with a dedicated sound card – problem fixed.
WHS – This addition to the setup brought networking issues back again. Upgraded to a discrete Intel NIC and the problem is solved.
I have no problem telling people they should want an HTPC. They should need to listen to me because I have been there and done that at my expense. Currently I have several friends, family andd neighbors that like my setup. But I have to figure out what they really want before I tell them what they need to buy. And if they go to Frys without me and tell me they have problems later I’ll tell them straight up I can’t help unless they take it all back and then listen to me.
There are a lot of levels of a HTPC also. From a basic Netflix box with the ability to play music and other media from the network to a full blown whole house DVR and Media server.
I would not say that is the optimal way to run the coax but with the tuners off the inital split should have enough signal. I didn’t see where you have the SD tuners in there.
Ultimately you want to run the cable co line directly into a TAP. A tap is not a splitter, although it is sort of similar in that it provides 2 output legs from 1 input. A splitter divides the power in 2 and the power at each out leg is the same. A tap loses the rated value through the TAP leg but only a small insertion loss through the OUT leg. A DC-9, for example, loses 9dB through the TAP leg, but only ~2dB through the OUT leg. The best way to connect a cable modem would be to have the TAP leg connected to the cable modem and the OUT leg going to the TV distribution system, whether it be a splitter or an amplifier (depends on how many outlets you have).
I run my TAPs out leg into a 15db amp then into a two way splitter that feeds two 8 way splitters and I don’t have any signal issues. Even with 2 of those legs being split again into two feeds for my 2 HDHRs.
I assume you had the latest firmware from SD installed on your tuners and the latest drivers. Both from August I think.
Have you posted this on TheGreenButton also. I imagine your setup is identical to many others.
I would not say that is the optimal way to run the coax but with the tuners off the inital split should have enough signal. I didn’t see where you have the SD tuners in there.
Ultimately you want to run the cable co line directly into a TAP. A tap is not a splitter, although it is sort of similar in that it provides 2 output legs from 1 input. A splitter divides the power in 2 and the power at each out leg is the same. A tap loses the rated value through the TAP leg but only a small insertion loss through the OUT leg. A DC-9, for example, loses 9dB through the TAP leg, but only ~2dB through the OUT leg. The best way to connect a cable modem would be to have the TAP leg connected to the cable modem and the OUT leg going to the TV distribution system, whether it be a splitter or an amplifier (depends on how many outlets you have).
I run my TAPs out leg into a 15db amp then into a two way splitter that feeds two 8 way splitters and I don’t have any signal issues. Even with 2 of those legs being split again into two feeds for my 2 HDHRs.
I assume you had the latest firmware from SD installed on your tuners and the latest drivers. Both from August I think.
Have you posted this on TheGreenButton also. I imagine your setup is identical to many others.
Another reason why you might want a HDD in your 360.
http://www.engadget.com/2010/10/07/atandt-u-verse-customers-can-use-xbox-360-as-a-set-top-box-startin/Another reason why you might want a HDD in your 360.
http://www.engadget.com/2010/10/07/atandt-u-verse-customers-can-use-xbox-360-as-a-set-top-box-startin/Have you gone through the network settings on the 360 to test. You might search the xbox forums also.
Have you gone through the network settings on the 360 to test. You might search the xbox forums also.
October 7, 2010 at 7:17 pm in reply to: Re: building from scratch around ceton infinitv 4 card #1449I would think you could buy a AM2+ board, proc and DDR2 pretty cheap whether it be used, refurbished or a cheap combo deal. 1080P isn’t going change like video games as far as graphics hardware goes. If it runs today then it should run several years from now. Unless the pockets are deep.
The only thing I would definitely change on my future main HTPC builds would be to use an ATX board. More options, e.g. more tuners, a 3d capable video card (if there needs to be such a thing), more sata ports (should it get moved to a server).
I would think you could buy a AM2+ board, proc and DDR2 pretty cheap whether it be used, refurbished or a cheap combo deal. 1080P isn’t going change like video games as far as graphics hardware goes. If it runs today then it should run several years from now. Unless the pockets are deep.
The only thing I would definitely change on my future main HTPC builds would be to use an ATX board. More options, e.g. more tuners, a 3d capable video card (if there needs to be such a thing), more sata ports (should it get moved to a server).
I wonder if he could go into the guide and set the source for the one bad channel to use the CETON tuner only. It didn’t sound like a signal issue, more of a driver issue or because both tuners have the ability to be shared like a netwrok device maybe there was a conflict there.
I would turn on debugging on the HDHR and send Silicondust a log. And the logs from the event viewer.
I wonder if he could go into the guide and set the source for the one bad channel to use the CETON tuner only. It didn’t sound like a signal issue, more of a driver issue or because both tuners have the ability to be shared like a netwrok device maybe there was a conflict there.
I would turn on debugging on the HDHR and send Silicondust a log. And the logs from the event viewer.
I thought it was in this thread but try setting your NIC properties to 100MBps full duplex. Even if it is a Gigabit NIC.
I thought it was in this thread but try setting your NIC properties to 100MBps full duplex. Even if it is a Gigabit NIC.
What a nightmare. Since I was going to have the case open I took it out to the garage to hit it with the air compressor. In doing so I must of loosened up one of the SATA cables used in my raid array.
First issue was I had to dump my two port video card and go back to on board video so I could free up a PCI slot, I haven’t noticed any difference in quality from that change.
Then because I had the on board video disabled I had to reset the CMOS to get video again, to lazy to swap the NIC and VGA card. This caused me to have to set all my BIOS settings again. This is what I originally thought was wrong with my RAID array.
Just when I was about to give up and delete the array it told me one drive was not functional, this was after about 10 reboots and a lot of staring at the BIOS. So I opened the case again and pulled and plugged every SATA cable and wallah, I was up and running.
And the new NIC has fixed all my Live TV pixelation, networked video freezes, fast XBOX syncing and when I finish watching a video the delete,start and resume prompt comes up instantly.
If it wasn’t for the great on-board video AMD has I’d be tempted to go Intel next round.
What a nightmare. Since I was going to have the case open I took it out to the garage to hit it with the air compressor. In doing so I must of loosened up one of the SATA cables used in my raid array.
First issue was I had to dump my two port video card and go back to on board video so I could free up a PCI slot, I haven’t noticed any difference in quality from that change.
Then because I had the on board video disabled I had to reset the CMOS to get video again, to lazy to swap the NIC and VGA card. This caused me to have to set all my BIOS settings again. This is what I originally thought was wrong with my RAID array.
Just when I was about to give up and delete the array it told me one drive was not functional, this was after about 10 reboots and a lot of staring at the BIOS. So I opened the case again and pulled and plugged every SATA cable and wallah, I was up and running.
And the new NIC has fixed all my Live TV pixelation, networked video freezes, fast XBOX syncing and when I finish watching a video the delete,start and resume prompt comes up instantly.
If it wasn’t for the great on-board video AMD has I’d be tempted to go Intel next round.
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